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Using Kit Parts For Scratchbuilding |
The following sites are dealing with models scratchbuilt of various kit parts. This does not mean kit-bashing, all these parts came from different sources. That were, in most of the cases older, dismantled kits.
1. Corner House With Roof Terrace
This
house has been scratchbuilt of old Faller facade parts as well as of several other
parts. Cardboard has been used for the back walls and the roof, the baseplate is of
plastic.
The back walls were "plastered" with whitener from PELIKAN (like one knows it also from the water paint boxes for children), afterwards all side walls were painted with yellow PLAKA-color (from the same manufacturer). When plastering with whitener, however, you have to pay attention to some rules. The whitener should be applied only thinly on cardboard wall parts, otherwise they could warp. If this first layer has dried, ceck the results, i.e. whether a useful plaster structure has appeared. If this is not the case, you can apply another layer. However, this procedure should not be repeated too often , because otherwise, the layer becomes to thick, which could result in problems while painting.
If a plastic wall is plastered with whitener, you should work on the material with emery paper before.So the whitener which is not meant actually for plastic, can better stick on this material.
The roof got a gray painting and was fitted with numerous details as a roof terrace. Look at the cast-iron railing. The chimney got a ladder is for the chimney sweep.
Two members of the PREISER family are allready enjoying the good view you have from the roof terrace.
2. An Old Town House
This
town house is a complete plastic structure. Facade parts from 1960ies
Faller kits, as well as rests of wall sheets were taken to scratchbuild
this one. All walls of this house were put together of several single
pieces. However, in such a case the wall parts must be stabilized to
get the necessary stability. In addition plastic stripes are stuck on
the walls' interior sides. These stripes can be cut from plastic rests,
you don't need to care neither to color nor to the form, the central
issue is that they fit and are stable. No one does see them later
anyway. Often the windowless gable walls of old townhouses are
unplastered or show their brickwork - such a situation was modeled
here.
On a real brick wall, the mortar can be seen in the masonry joints, which shows a gray tint. This is not modeled on plastic kit parts.However, there is a simple trick to dye the masonry joints. Take light grey or white colour, and apply it on the plastic wall part.
Afterwards the uppermost layer - the one on the "bricks" - is wiped of with piece of piece of toilet paper (the paper should be moist, but not really wet), so that the colour or whitener is only left within the masonryl joints.
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I recommend such a treatment also for models of houses under construction, such like the one shown on the picture: Faller's kit 246. It's really astongly, how much the models' appareance is being improved by this procedure! |
The downpipes were made of wire, the gutters themselves were remainders of other kits. Wire is not only more stable than plastic, it can also easily be bent into the necessary form.
How the skylights were made, is being described in article about the Kaiserhof Restaurant on Site 3.
The antenna on the roof consists of soldered wire.
| Using Kit Parts For Scratchbuilding - Site 2 >> |